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Home > Articles on Mens Shoes > 

The "Last" issue or How to Get Shoes to Finally Fit

Everyone knows their shoes size, and sometimes their width. Some people know they have a high instep, or are flat-footed. There is, however, a very important aspect to finding shoes that fit that very few people are aware of. Shockingly, even most people currently working in shoe stores are not trained in this aspect of fitting anymore. It is the last and if all your shoes are the correct size, and the correct width, and are still uncomfortable the last is probably to blame.Curved feet need curved shoes, and straight feet need straight shoes. Sounds simple, right? Well, it is! Whether your feet are curved or straight is a description of the last of your foot. Look at your footprint in the sand (barefoot) or trace your foot on paper. Mark a dot in the middle of the heel, another in the centre of your foot. Now connect these dots and continue the line straight up through the toes. If the line comes out somewhere near your middle toe, you have a straight last. If the line comes out near your baby toe, you have a curved last. Your arch can supply another clue. Generally (though not always), curved lasted feet have high arches, while straight feet have low arches or are flat-footed..If you have a curved last, any straight lasted shoes you may have picked up over the years will be very uncomfortable. Though your little toes have plenty of room in them, your big toe will always be pushing against the side of the shoe, trying to get out . Your leather shoes will show strain in the big toe area. Canvas or cloth shoes will have burst stitches or fraying where the big toe is attempting to curve out of the straight shoe. The more pronounced your curve, the more strain your foot is under when you wear straight shoes. Remember, any shoe that forces your toe inward contributes to bunions!

If your foot has a straight last, odds are that your older, worn shoes show it. Most people with a straight last walk in a way that folds their shoes with each step. This creates a characteristic crease that cuts across the shoe between the toes and the rest of the foot. If you are very hard on your shoes (or wear them to death!), you may even have cracked the outsoles across the ball of the foot. A straight foot forced into a curved shoe has plenty of big toe room, but the curve of the shoe pushes against the baby toe. This often causes the baby toe to be crushed against the neighbouring toe, sometimes even forcing it under. Straight lasted people are often so accustomed to having their baby toe sit completely or partially under the next toe, they don't even realize it's a sign of ill-fit. Another sign of a straight last is that light, slip-on shoes (like ballet flats or low heels) often gape at the sides with each step. When you shop for shoes, always flip them over and look at the sole. Draw the imaginary line from the heel, through the centre and up. Is the shoe curved or straight? When in doubt, try it on and pay attention to the fit of the toes. If the big toe is pressing on the sidewall of the shoe while your baby toe has plenty of room, the shoe is too straight. If your big toe is fine, but your poor baby toe is being crushed against it's neighbour, the shoe is too curved. Keep looking! A properly fitting shoe allows all your toes to lay flat on the bottom of the shoe, with no pressure on the sides. That's how you know the size, the width, and the last is right. The ideal last is a subtly curved last. A last that is very straight or very curved can contribute to instability in the foot. Pronation and supination (the foot collapsing inward, or outward) are both serious problems that can lead to pain and/or dysfunction in the ankles, knees or hips. Proper orthotics or supportive insoles can help. Your podiatrist can determine if an over-the-counter insole will do, or if you need prescription orthotics. Your feet are your body's foundation, and they under incredible stresses with each step. Proper support is an important part of taking care of your feet, and therefore your body. Fewer and fewer shoes are being manufactured with proper support. Your podiatrist can help you ensure your shoes have the necessary insole for the arch issues associated with a dramatic last. Once you've worn shoes with a last that matches your feet, you will feel like Cinderella (or \fella as the case may be)! Your foot has 33 joints, and forcing them into incorrect alignment can lead to nothing but discomfort and malfunction. Pinched, cramped toes can lead to bunions, corns, and circulation issues. These are particularly serious for diabetics. If you want to maintain a healthy, active lifestyle, take care of your feet. Think of your last, first!

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